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How do i know how to cut different patterns?

I know how to sew using measurements of other people, but other websites make professional sizes that sometimes fit, I want to be able to make the specific sizes so then I can do a better job of actually making the clothes for other people.

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Michelle’s Answer

Hello, Success !

A student asked the same question and this is the advice I will share :

Yes, you are correct - patterns in our country are standard sizes and my advice is to keep working with those patterns but here's what you can do.

Perhaps, for example, a customer orders a size 8 dress. In a perfect world, everyone would be the exact standard size 8 who takes a size 8, but everyone is different in dimensions and height. I know it's an investment, but you will need to buy a dress form and work with the garment on it until it's ready enough for the customer to try it on. So, basically, you are working with the standard size, but then doing alterations after the fitting.

The instructions to create your own patterns from scratch or modify a standard pattern can be used and I have provided some links below to get you started.

Do not underestimate your sewing ability. Much of sewing is gearing the garment to a specific person and no one has the exact same dimensions. You're doing a great job. Just remember, clothing off the rack in retail stores are very often altered or adjusted by the person who needs to wear it. Remember to take the measurements of the person and have fittings for them and that's what fitting is for - to customize the fit. Keep doing what you're doing and if you're not sewing a garment for anyone in particular, leave it at the standard size and if someone buys it, do the fitting for any alterations that are needed. Your skill at alteration will take you far !

I hope that this is helpful and I wish you all the best !

Michelle recommends the following next steps:

EXAMPLE OF DRESS FORMS https://www.joann.com/sewing/dress-forms/
CUSTOM PATTERN MAKING https://techpacker.com/blog/design/apparel-pattern-making/
MODIFY A STANDARD PATTERN OR MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/
PATTERNS AND BLOCKS THAT YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE https://www.sewist.com/editor/mix
MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Sewing-Patterns
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Irene’s Answer

Hi again,
The question you are asking is actually resolved by grading any standard pattern to the custom size.
The ‘grading’ technique is clearly explained in the book I’m suggesting below. Any other books or videos on grading would be really helpful to you.

Basically, you take the measurements of your client and compare them to the measurements of the standard size for which your standard pattern is made. The difference needs to be accommodated by making your standard pattern bigger or smaller in some parts and others.
Try to distribute the difference evenly throughout the total circumference, not just add or reduce the width at the side seam. That’s when the grading technique described in the book below is really useful.
Have fun working on your projects! Practice makes perfect…
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